France's Oldest and Most Rewarding National Park

While the Tour du Mont Blanc attracts trekkers from across the globe, its quieter neighbour — the Vanoise National Park — offers an equally spectacular Alpine experience with far fewer footprints. Established in 1963 as France's first national park, the Vanoise protects an extraordinary landscape of glaciers, high cols, and ancient larch forests in the Savoie region of the French Alps.

Its border merges directly with Italy's Gran Paradiso National Park, creating one of the largest protected areas in Western Europe.

Why the Vanoise Stands Apart

  • Wildlife: The Vanoise hosts one of Europe's most significant ibex populations. Early morning hikers regularly encounter these sure-footed wild goats on rocky slopes, completely unperturbed by human presence. Chamois, marmots, and golden eagles are equally common sightings.
  • Refuges: A network of mountain refuges (staffed mountain huts) allows multi-day traversals without carrying tent or cooking equipment. Meals are hearty and social — the great tradition of French alpine hospitality.
  • Glacial terrain: The park protects a significant portion of the remaining French Alpine glaciers, offering dramatic visual backdrops on every high route.
  • No motorised access in the core zone: Once you enter the heart of the park, the world becomes very quiet.

Key Trails and Routes

The GR55 — Tour de la Vanoise

The classic multi-day circuit of the Vanoise covers approximately 80 km over 5–7 days, linking the resort towns of Pralognan-la-Vanoise and Val d'Isère via high passes including the Col de la Vanoise (2,517m). The route passes the iconic Lac du Col de la Vanoise — a glacial lake sitting below the Grande Casse (the highest peak in the park at 3,855m).

Refuge du Plan du Lac Day Walk

For those wanting a single outstanding day hike, the walk from Bonneval-sur-Arc to the Refuge du Plan du Lac delivers high-alpine scenery with relatively manageable elevation gain. The views over the Lac du Mont Cenis reservoir and surrounding peaks are remarkable.

Col de la Leisse

A high mountain pass at 2,758m, the Col de la Leisse connects the Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys and is a highlight of the GR5 — France's epic long-distance trail running from the Netherlands to Nice. The descent into the Leisse valley is one of the most serene stretches of Alpine walking anywhere in Europe.

Best Time to Visit

The hiking season runs roughly from late June to late September, with peak conditions in July and August. June can bring late-season snow on high passes — check with local refuges before attempting high routes. September is often the best month: lighter crowds, stable weather, and the first hints of autumn colour in the larch forests.

Getting There

  • By rail: TGV trains connect Paris to Moûtiers (Tarentaise) or Modane (Maurienne) — both serve as gateway valleys to the park.
  • By air: Chambéry (CMF) and Geneva (GVA) airports offer good connections. Lyon (LYS) is also accessible.
  • By car: Excellent road access into most valley bases. Park rules prohibit vehicles inside the protected zone.

Practical Information

There is no entrance fee to the Vanoise National Park. Camping is restricted to designated zones and must be done between 7pm and 9am. Fires are prohibited throughout the park. Dogs must be on a lead at all times in the protected zone to safeguard wildlife.

Refuge bookings should be made well in advance for July and August through the Refuges du Parc de la Vanoise website or by contacting individual refuges directly.

A Final Word

The Vanoise rewards those willing to step off the beaten path. If you've done the Tour du Mont Blanc and want something equally beautiful but more intimate, the Vanoise is one of Europe's great undiscovered trekking destinations — and the ibex watching alone is worth the journey.